Hull
| Rudder Gear | Rudder Gear set | WO-1893 | 1 | See notes and drawing below for an explamation |
| Optional Upper pintle | WO-1894 | 1 | ||
| Keelband | 1/2″ wide | HL-0701 | 22 | 2 lengths 1′ 9 2 on bilge runners, two 2′ on each side of plate case if fitted. 1 lengths 9′ forward, one 5′ 6″ aft to skeg. If no plate case, then length needs to be increased |
| Rowlocks | Who needs them? | |||
| Mooring equipment | rope tied around knees or thwarts? | |||
| Buoyancy (difficult in a boat of this style) | Bow Bag 29″ x 25″ x 9″ | HL-0570 | 2 | 45 kg buoyancy each, fitted bow and stern. Or use pillow bags as listed below |
| Pillow bags – 24 x 7 | HL-0573 | 2 | 18 kg buoyancy each, fitted below centre thwart and in bow. Easier if no daggerboard, could then use 39 x 9, HL-0576 with 45 kg buoyancy under thwart | |
| Pillow bag – 30 x 9 | HL-0574 | 1 | 27 kg buoyancy, fitted under aft thwart | |
| Pillow bags – 39 x 9 | HL-0576 | 1 | under forward thwart | |
| Drain Bung | Captive type | HL-0560 | 1 | or a sponge |
Rig – Lug
| Mainsail | Mast Traveller | RG-1110 | 1 | bronze.leathered |
| Head lacing -4mm | RP-0200 | 3 | ||
| Halyard sheave – 40 mm dia | RG-1496 | 1 | if fitted at all – a dumb sheave might serve just as well | |
| Halyard – 6mm braided | RP-0201 | 7 | ||
| Halyard cleat – 5″ ash | HL-1034 | 1 | or belay pin in thwart – which is also handy for keeping mast in place. 8″ x 5/8″ (HL-1050) should do | |
| Downhaul – 6 mm braided | RP-0201 | 2 | You can’t get this too tight! Leads from thwart to block on sail tack back down to belay pin | |
| Downhaul Block | RG-0510 | 1 | on sail tack | |
| Belay pin 8 x 5/8″ | HL-1050 | 1 | in thwart | |
| Mainsheet – 8 mm braided | RP-0202 | 4.5 | ||
| Mainsheet block | RG-0510 | 1 | on boom, then to hand | |
| Mainsheet block | HL-0515 | 1 | screwed to floor between centre and aft thwart? |
Rig – Sprit
| Mainsail | Fittings? Maybe a block RG-0510, a couple of belay pins – HL-1050 – and rope! |
Notes on Elf Rudder Gear
This was dreamt up by Iain Oughtred and myself on the basis of as many old pictures of Norse and Shetland boats as we could find.
The trick was to allow the gudgeons to adjust to the varying angles of the pintles. This has been done – in our solution – by using a gudgeon more like a doughnut than a tube, so that it can swivel in a vertical plane as well as the horizontal one. If anyone can think of a better idea, please let us know.
There are 2 snags:
firstly the gudgeon makes a point contact on the pintle. This tends to mean that a galvanised or steel option is unlikley to last very long in a marine environment.
So the gear is best done in bronze or stainless
secondly there is a trade-off between the tightness of the gudgeons and the amount of rudder movement available – current mock-ups indicate that a
rudder angle of +/- 35 degrees gives a reasonable compromise.
Anyway the scheme works as in the sketch.
The left hand one shows the normal position, with the upper rudder gudgeon on the extension of the pintle. The lower rudder gudgeon is split at its front end,
and is mounted onto the pintle via a reduction in width near the top of the
pintle, and then slid down to its normal position. An “R” clip keeps at the
top of the pintle stops the rudder jumping off.
And when you want to come ashore, you reach back and bring the rudder up to the upper pintle on the hull. This should give you a bit of steerage, whilst avoiding damage to the rudder when you hit the beach/putty.
With this scheme, the cheeks of the rudder head will need to be extended downwards by about 3″ because the upper strap is mounted lower on the rudder than shown on the drawing. Alternatively you could shorten the cheeks a bit, so the strap goes below them.
